Yes, with an "s." Meaning plural.
First, there's "Simon Says" by Aleksandra Crapanzano, which reviews Simon Hopkinson's 1994 general use cookbook, Roast Chicken and Other Stories, a book that, among other things, won the 2005 Glenfiddich Award for best food book and apparently was the first book to finally knock Harry Potter of Amazon UK's bestseller charts (the article doesn't specify which--whichever one came out in 2005, I guess). It's being released for the first time in the US this year. In any case, the article is two "pages" long, and goes into detail about what makes the cookbook not only a useful tool, but also a good piece of writing. At one point, Crapanzano even mentions an "unexpected pleasure of reading" Hopkinson (italics mine).
The review I'm really excited about, however, is Dwight Garner's Holiday Cookbooks rundown in the (gasp) Book Review. Aw, Sam! I didn't know you cared! The article is centered around an examination of why British cookbooks are "better" (quotations Garner's, not mine) than American ones; a conversation that, as someone interested mainly in American literature, I find incredibly dull and unfounded regardless of genre. I find his assertion that American cookbooks are loud and flashy and restaraunt-y compared to the quiet, reserved, home-cooked offerings from the UK a bit cliched. And also wrong. (Hello, Jamie Oliver!) Whatever, at least Garner is discussing trends in cookbook writing as opposed to trends in cookbook marketing.
And focus on the writing his does. His analysis is thoughtful and mostly spot on, even if I don't agree with his thesis. Then again, neither does the analysis itself--he doesn't dig Alice Waters' new book all that much, so, you know, I like him, but his reasons for disliking it is that's "it’s a Hillary Clinton of a cookbook, brilliant but unflappable and thus slightly unapproachable." So...it's not loud and flashy? But I thought that's what was wrong with American cookbooks?
It's a bit hard to tell where Garner draws the line on "American" cookbooks--some of his picks are published America by foreign authors and some are by authors born elsewhere who later move to America. This is why the whole American/British literature debate is dumb, and especially why it's useless in terms of cookbooks.
In any case, once again, it's good to see a major news outlet giving cookbooks the time of day as both tools and pieces of literature.
Showing posts with label Theory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Theory. Show all posts
Monday, December 3, 2007
Monday, September 24, 2007
Article: Food, Inglorious Food
(I know I'm late on this. I wrote this Friday, didn't have time to edit it, now it's Monday, you know how it goes.)
Here's an interesting article for Slate by Paul Levy, and I don't think it will surprise anyone when I say I disagree with his critique of "macho" food writing. He thinks modern food writers, such as our old pal Bourdain, are "foodie shock jocks" and poo poos their use of crude language and masculine imagery where he used, um, "allusions to the Bible, Shakespeare, Dickens, or Damon Runyon, readers who would understand cryptic puns and whose jaws would not slacken when asked whether they knew 'the land where the lemon trees bloom?'"
The problem with Levy's argument is that he doesn't realize what argument he's making, which surprises me given the fact that he dangles his PhD in Literature in front of the reader to prove He Knows What He's Talking About. In promoting a return to "elegantly simple" writing, he's also denying food writing's fascinating propulsion towards a variety of styles in recent years--a move that I'm sure his doctoral committee would support over simple stagnation in any genre of literature. This particular style of food writing is very important in that it reflects the voice of the professional culinary community, as opposed to the "eater" Levy claims to represent--which I'm going to go ahead and claim is a move towards a French-style food writing culture (preserving both professional and amateur culinary history through literature), regardless of the fact that the tone of the style might not mirror this shift.
Here's where I dangle my I Know What I'm Talking About factoid in front of you--I've worked in four professional kitchens and every one has been filled with foul-mouthed boys showing off to each other. This style of writing is caustic and imposing and perhaps Levy is right to critique its tone, but I'm not sure he does so in a constructive manor. These men are writing what they know, and you know what? It's similar to how I write about food because it's also what I know. Would I call my tone masculine? No. Would I call it pretentious and a little bit crude at the same time? Sure. This reflects the game that cooks play both in the kitchen and out, and it reflects the fact that, although the eater is presented with a lovely clean plate upon ordering, he's paying people to deal with the grosser aspects of preparing that plate (shelling, for example, or, you know, butchering).
I think this style of food writing is a far cry from being the dominant style--that crown goes to twee 'foodie' writing. Yes, Bourdain's popular, but it's because the man is charismatic. I don't think it represents a deterioration of taste in food writing, and furthermore I think this whole discussion smacks of elitism. Call me crazy, but I thought criticism was beyond bitching about stories told in vernacular.
(Edited to note that Levy doesn't offer up any good food writers--past or present--against Bourdain and Buford apart from...himself?)
Here's an interesting article for Slate by Paul Levy, and I don't think it will surprise anyone when I say I disagree with his critique of "macho" food writing. He thinks modern food writers, such as our old pal Bourdain, are "foodie shock jocks" and poo poos their use of crude language and masculine imagery where he used, um, "allusions to the Bible, Shakespeare, Dickens, or Damon Runyon, readers who would understand cryptic puns and whose jaws would not slacken when asked whether they knew 'the land where the lemon trees bloom?'"
The problem with Levy's argument is that he doesn't realize what argument he's making, which surprises me given the fact that he dangles his PhD in Literature in front of the reader to prove He Knows What He's Talking About. In promoting a return to "elegantly simple" writing, he's also denying food writing's fascinating propulsion towards a variety of styles in recent years--a move that I'm sure his doctoral committee would support over simple stagnation in any genre of literature. This particular style of food writing is very important in that it reflects the voice of the professional culinary community, as opposed to the "eater" Levy claims to represent--which I'm going to go ahead and claim is a move towards a French-style food writing culture (preserving both professional and amateur culinary history through literature), regardless of the fact that the tone of the style might not mirror this shift.
Here's where I dangle my I Know What I'm Talking About factoid in front of you--I've worked in four professional kitchens and every one has been filled with foul-mouthed boys showing off to each other. This style of writing is caustic and imposing and perhaps Levy is right to critique its tone, but I'm not sure he does so in a constructive manor. These men are writing what they know, and you know what? It's similar to how I write about food because it's also what I know. Would I call my tone masculine? No. Would I call it pretentious and a little bit crude at the same time? Sure. This reflects the game that cooks play both in the kitchen and out, and it reflects the fact that, although the eater is presented with a lovely clean plate upon ordering, he's paying people to deal with the grosser aspects of preparing that plate (shelling, for example, or, you know, butchering).
I think this style of food writing is a far cry from being the dominant style--that crown goes to twee 'foodie' writing. Yes, Bourdain's popular, but it's because the man is charismatic. I don't think it represents a deterioration of taste in food writing, and furthermore I think this whole discussion smacks of elitism. Call me crazy, but I thought criticism was beyond bitching about stories told in vernacular.
(Edited to note that Levy doesn't offer up any good food writers--past or present--against Bourdain and Buford apart from...himself?)
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Craig Claiborne's Recommended Cookbook Library
So after writing the piece below, I opened up Craig Claiborne's A Feast For Laughter to use as my next review fodder. If you recall, I previously made fun of Craig and his kooky-booky cover art, but it turns out I was so, so wrong to do so. The book is split into three parts, the first of which is the memoir, which I will read and review later, and the last of which is his 100 favorite recipes of all time, which I will make and review later. The middle section, however, is entitled "My Recommended Cookbook Library," to which I said, out loud, "Holy SHIT" and scared the cat. He has paragraph reviews of each book, but I'm going to put the list of the books themselves here. (If someone knows that this is copyright infringement, will you let me know? The book's out of print and it's for review purposes.) This list was written in 1982. Categories are Claiborne's, comments are mine.
General
The Joy of Cooking, Irma S. Rombauer and Marion R. Becker, 1979
The New York Times Cookbook, Craig Claiborne, 1961 (Craig, seriously? The number two spot goes...to yourself?)
The Gourmet Cookbook, Volume I, the Editors of Gourmet Magazine, 1959 (which I immediately and thoroughly coveted upon learning of its existence)
The James Beard Cookbook, James Beard, 1959
The Complete Asian Cookbook, Charmaine Solomon, 1976
The New James Beard, James Beard, 1981
Paula Peck's Art of Good Cooking, Paula Peck, 1966
Better Than Store-Bought, Helen Witty and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie, 1979
The Chez Panisse Menu Cook Book, Alice Waters, 1982
American
James Beard's American Cookery, James Beard, 1972
The Boston Cooking School Cookbook, Fanie Merritt Farmer, 1986
The Fannie Farmer Cookbook, Marion Cunningham, 1979
American Food: The Gastronomic Story, Evan Jones, 1975
The American Heritage Cookbook, 1969
The West Coast Cookbook, Helen Evans Brown, 1952
The International Chili Society Official Chili Cook Book, Martina and William Neely, 1981
Uh, Junior League and regional books; he names a couple but recommends them wholesale.
Caribbean and Latin America
The Flavors of Carribbean and Latin America, Alex D. Hawkes, 1978
Chinese
The Chinese Cookbook, Craig Claiborne and Virginia Lee, 1972 (Again? He also claims it "is the best Chinese cookbook in print.")
Pleasures of Chinese Cooking, Grace Zia Chu, 1962
The Great Tastes of Chinese Cooking, Jean Yuch, 1979
Florence Lin's Regional Cookbook, Florence Lin, 1978
The Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook, Gloria Bley Miller, 1970
French
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle, Julia Child, 1961
Simca's Cuisine, Simone Beck, 1972 (This has been on my wish list for awhile now.)
The Art of Charcuterie, Jane Grigson, 1968
A French Chef Cooks at Home, Jacques Pepin, 1975
Greek
Greek Cooking for the Gods, Eva Zane, 1970
Greek Cooking, Lou Seibert Pappas, 1973
Cooking and Baking the Greek Way, Anne Theoharous, 1977
Greek Islands Cooking, Theonie Mark, 1974
Hungarian
The Cuisine of Hungary, George Lang, 1971
Indonesian
The Indonesian Kitchen, Copeland Marks, 1981
Indian
An Invitation to Indian Cooking, Madhur Jaffrey, 1973
Classic Indian Cooking, Julie Sahni, 1973
Cooking for the Maharajas, Shivaji Rao and Shalini Devi Holkar, 1975
International
Foods of the World Series, Time Life Books (Of which he says The Cooking of Provincial France is the worst volume. He does not also say that it happens to be the most famous volume because it was written by MFK Fisher, whose books he recommends later in the list. Huh?)
Elizabeth David Classics, Elizabeth David, 1980
The Four Seasons, 250 Original Recipes from One of the World's Great Restaurants, Tom Margittai and Paul Kovi (I wouldn't mind owning this one, either.)
Cooking for One is Fun, Henry Lewis Creel, 1976
A Treasury of Great Recipes, Mary and Vincent Price, 1965
The Dumpling Cookbook, by Maria Polushkin, 1976
The Saucier's Apprentice, by Raymond Sokolov, 1976
Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing, by Rytek Cutas, 1976
Italian
The Classic Italian Cookbook: The Art of Italian Cooking and the Italian Art of Eating, Marcella Hazan, 1976
The Fine art of Italian Cooking, Giuliano Bugialli, 1977
Italian Regional Cooking, Ada Boni, 1969
The Complete Book of Pasta, Jack Denton Scott, 1968
Italian Family Cooking, Edward Giobbi, 1971
Italian Food, Elizabeth David, 1958
Japanese
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art, Shizuo Tsuji, 1980
At Home with Japanese Cooking, Elizabeth Andoh, 1980
Mexican
The Cuisines of Mexico, Diana Kennedy, 1972
Middle East
The Complete Middle East Cookbook, Tess Mallos, 1980
Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco, Paula Wolfert, 1973
Scandinavian
The Great Scandanavian Cook Book, Karin Fredikson, 1967
The Swedish Princesses Cook Book, Jenny Akerstrom, 1936 (what a title!)
Spanish
The Food and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas, 1982
Turkish
The Art of Turkish Cooking, Neset Eren, 1969
Vietnamese
The Classic Cuisine of Vietnam, Bach Ngo and Gloria Zimmerman, 1979
Vegetarian
World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking, Madhur Jaffrey, 1981
Baking
English Bread and Yeast Cookery, Elizabeth David, 1972
Art of Fine Baking, Paula Peck, 1961
Beard on Bread, James Beard, 1973 (Also one of my favorites.)
The Complete Book of Breads, Bernard Clayton, Jr., 1973
The Complete Book of Pastry, Sweet and Savory, Bernard Clayton, Jr., 1981
Canning, Drying, Preserving
The Ball Blue Book, The Ball Corporation, 1975
The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling,, Jeanne Lesem, 1975
The Green Thumb Preserving Guide, Jean Anderson, 1976
French Cheese
French Cheese, Pierre Androuet, 1973
Desserts
Maida Heatter's Book of Great Desserts, 1977
The Joy of Cheese Cake, Dana Bovbjerg and Jeremy Iggers, 1980
Foraging and books on the out-of-doors
Stalking the Wild Asparagus, Euell Gibbons, 1962
Wine
Alex Lichine's New Encyclopedia of Wine & Spirits, Alex Lichine, 1974
Frank Schoonmaker's Encyclopedia of Wine, Frank Schoonmaker, 1964
The New York Times Book of Wine, Terry Robards, 1976
The Joys of Wine, Clifton Fadiman and Sam Aaron, 1975
Reference
Dictionnaire de l'Academie des Gastronomes, 1962
Larousse Gastronomique, Prosper Montagne, 1961
La Technique, Jacques Pepin, 1976
Cooking Techniques, Beverly Cox with Joan Whitman, 1981
Chinese Technique, Ken Hom with Harvey Steinam, 1981
The Wise Encyclopedia of Cookery, 1948
The Food of France, 1958
Food, Waverly Root, 1980
The Food of the Western World, Theodora FitzGibbon, 1976
Bouquet de France, Samuel Chamberlain, 1966
The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery, AJ McClane, 1977
La Repertoire de la Cuisine, Louis Saulnier, 1967
Composition of Food, Agricultural Handbook No. 8 USDA, 1963 (Um, is it just me, or is that kind of hot?)
Beeton's Book of Household Management, Isabella Beeton, 1968
Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire, Auguste Escoffier, 1980
The Escoffier Cook Book, A. Escoffier, 1941
Encylopaedia Britannica, Eleventh Edition, 1910 (Apparently this edition is considered to be better than others. Claiborne recommends it for chef research.)
Reading
The Physiology of Taste, Jean A. Brillat-Savarin, translated by MFK Fisher, 1971
The Art of Eating, MFK Fisher, 1976
The Glorious Oyster, Hector Bolitho, 1960
Table Topics, Julian Street, 1959
The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, Alice B. Toklas1954
Food in History, Reay Tannahill, 1973
The Taste of Country Cooking, Edna Lewis, 1976
Culture and Cuisine: A Journey Through the History of Food, Jean-Francois Revel, 1982
General
The Joy of Cooking, Irma S. Rombauer and Marion R. Becker, 1979
The New York Times Cookbook, Craig Claiborne, 1961 (Craig, seriously? The number two spot goes...to yourself?)
The Gourmet Cookbook, Volume I, the Editors of Gourmet Magazine, 1959 (which I immediately and thoroughly coveted upon learning of its existence)
The James Beard Cookbook, James Beard, 1959
The Complete Asian Cookbook, Charmaine Solomon, 1976
The New James Beard, James Beard, 1981
Paula Peck's Art of Good Cooking, Paula Peck, 1966
Better Than Store-Bought, Helen Witty and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie, 1979
The Chez Panisse Menu Cook Book, Alice Waters, 1982
American
James Beard's American Cookery, James Beard, 1972
The Boston Cooking School Cookbook, Fanie Merritt Farmer, 1986
The Fannie Farmer Cookbook, Marion Cunningham, 1979
American Food: The Gastronomic Story, Evan Jones, 1975
The American Heritage Cookbook, 1969
The West Coast Cookbook, Helen Evans Brown, 1952
The International Chili Society Official Chili Cook Book, Martina and William Neely, 1981
Uh, Junior League and regional books; he names a couple but recommends them wholesale.
Caribbean and Latin America
The Flavors of Carribbean and Latin America, Alex D. Hawkes, 1978
Chinese
The Chinese Cookbook, Craig Claiborne and Virginia Lee, 1972 (Again? He also claims it "is the best Chinese cookbook in print.")
Pleasures of Chinese Cooking, Grace Zia Chu, 1962
The Great Tastes of Chinese Cooking, Jean Yuch, 1979
Florence Lin's Regional Cookbook, Florence Lin, 1978
The Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook, Gloria Bley Miller, 1970
French
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle, Julia Child, 1961
Simca's Cuisine, Simone Beck, 1972 (This has been on my wish list for awhile now.)
The Art of Charcuterie, Jane Grigson, 1968
A French Chef Cooks at Home, Jacques Pepin, 1975
Greek
Greek Cooking for the Gods, Eva Zane, 1970
Greek Cooking, Lou Seibert Pappas, 1973
Cooking and Baking the Greek Way, Anne Theoharous, 1977
Greek Islands Cooking, Theonie Mark, 1974
Hungarian
The Cuisine of Hungary, George Lang, 1971
Indonesian
The Indonesian Kitchen, Copeland Marks, 1981
Indian
An Invitation to Indian Cooking, Madhur Jaffrey, 1973
Classic Indian Cooking, Julie Sahni, 1973
Cooking for the Maharajas, Shivaji Rao and Shalini Devi Holkar, 1975
International
Foods of the World Series, Time Life Books (Of which he says The Cooking of Provincial France is the worst volume. He does not also say that it happens to be the most famous volume because it was written by MFK Fisher, whose books he recommends later in the list. Huh?)
Elizabeth David Classics, Elizabeth David, 1980
The Four Seasons, 250 Original Recipes from One of the World's Great Restaurants, Tom Margittai and Paul Kovi (I wouldn't mind owning this one, either.)
Cooking for One is Fun, Henry Lewis Creel, 1976
A Treasury of Great Recipes, Mary and Vincent Price, 1965
The Dumpling Cookbook, by Maria Polushkin, 1976
The Saucier's Apprentice, by Raymond Sokolov, 1976
Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing, by Rytek Cutas, 1976
Italian
The Classic Italian Cookbook: The Art of Italian Cooking and the Italian Art of Eating, Marcella Hazan, 1976
The Fine art of Italian Cooking, Giuliano Bugialli, 1977
Italian Regional Cooking, Ada Boni, 1969
The Complete Book of Pasta, Jack Denton Scott, 1968
Italian Family Cooking, Edward Giobbi, 1971
Italian Food, Elizabeth David, 1958
Japanese
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art, Shizuo Tsuji, 1980
At Home with Japanese Cooking, Elizabeth Andoh, 1980
Mexican
The Cuisines of Mexico, Diana Kennedy, 1972
Middle East
The Complete Middle East Cookbook, Tess Mallos, 1980
Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco, Paula Wolfert, 1973
Scandinavian
The Great Scandanavian Cook Book, Karin Fredikson, 1967
The Swedish Princesses Cook Book, Jenny Akerstrom, 1936 (what a title!)
Spanish
The Food and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas, 1982
Turkish
The Art of Turkish Cooking, Neset Eren, 1969
Vietnamese
The Classic Cuisine of Vietnam, Bach Ngo and Gloria Zimmerman, 1979
Vegetarian
World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking, Madhur Jaffrey, 1981
Baking
English Bread and Yeast Cookery, Elizabeth David, 1972
Art of Fine Baking, Paula Peck, 1961
Beard on Bread, James Beard, 1973 (Also one of my favorites.)
The Complete Book of Breads, Bernard Clayton, Jr., 1973
The Complete Book of Pastry, Sweet and Savory, Bernard Clayton, Jr., 1981
Canning, Drying, Preserving
The Ball Blue Book, The Ball Corporation, 1975
The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling,, Jeanne Lesem, 1975
The Green Thumb Preserving Guide, Jean Anderson, 1976
French Cheese
French Cheese, Pierre Androuet, 1973
Desserts
Maida Heatter's Book of Great Desserts, 1977
The Joy of Cheese Cake, Dana Bovbjerg and Jeremy Iggers, 1980
Foraging and books on the out-of-doors
Stalking the Wild Asparagus, Euell Gibbons, 1962
Wine
Alex Lichine's New Encyclopedia of Wine & Spirits, Alex Lichine, 1974
Frank Schoonmaker's Encyclopedia of Wine, Frank Schoonmaker, 1964
The New York Times Book of Wine, Terry Robards, 1976
The Joys of Wine, Clifton Fadiman and Sam Aaron, 1975
Reference
Dictionnaire de l'Academie des Gastronomes, 1962
Larousse Gastronomique, Prosper Montagne, 1961
La Technique, Jacques Pepin, 1976
Cooking Techniques, Beverly Cox with Joan Whitman, 1981
Chinese Technique, Ken Hom with Harvey Steinam, 1981
The Wise Encyclopedia of Cookery, 1948
The Food of France, 1958
Food, Waverly Root, 1980
The Food of the Western World, Theodora FitzGibbon, 1976
Bouquet de France, Samuel Chamberlain, 1966
The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery, AJ McClane, 1977
La Repertoire de la Cuisine, Louis Saulnier, 1967
Composition of Food, Agricultural Handbook No. 8 USDA, 1963 (Um, is it just me, or is that kind of hot?)
Beeton's Book of Household Management, Isabella Beeton, 1968
Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire, Auguste Escoffier, 1980
The Escoffier Cook Book, A. Escoffier, 1941
Encylopaedia Britannica, Eleventh Edition, 1910 (Apparently this edition is considered to be better than others. Claiborne recommends it for chef research.)
Reading
The Physiology of Taste, Jean A. Brillat-Savarin, translated by MFK Fisher, 1971
The Art of Eating, MFK Fisher, 1976
The Glorious Oyster, Hector Bolitho, 1960
Table Topics, Julian Street, 1959
The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, Alice B. Toklas1954
Food in History, Reay Tannahill, 1973
The Taste of Country Cooking, Edna Lewis, 1976
Culture and Cuisine: A Journey Through the History of Food, Jean-Francois Revel, 1982
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Beginner-Expert Cookbook Library
A friend of mine recently asked me:
As I am moving in the near future to a place where I must do my own cooking, and yet again hope to learn how to cook for myself with some level of skill, I was wondering if you have suggestions for a few basic necessary cookbooks. I have none at this point, and don't really know how to start; picking them out of the Border's discount section based on the cover art seems like a bad idea.
This is an interesting question, mostly because I'm assuming this friend of mine isn't really interested in buying each and everyone one of the 100+ completely indispensable (ha!) cookbooks I own, nor is he interested merely getting an introduction. He is interested in "some level of skill." I've seen people consider which single cookbook they can't live without (invariably The Joy of Cooking), and which single cookbook they would give to a beginner cook (again, The Joy of Cooking), but I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask for a list of starter cookbooks that wasn't necessarily aimed at the bottom rung. So, without further ado, I present the categories and my personal favorites for The Fewest Books a Decent Cook Can Own. And honestly, go out and buy The Joy of Cooking before you even begin to contemplate this list.
Grandma Food
I think everyone should have whatever cookbook their Grandmother used to learn to cook if possible, if only because you can then recreate all the comfort food and holiday feasts you grew up on. My paternal Grandmother used Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook, which is good for soups and stews and casseroles, as well as cooking times for big pieces of meat. Also, you know, jello salads. My maternal Grandmother used Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and I actually have her personal copy. Which is awesome, because it's full of shopping lists and menus for cocktail parties and whatnot. It's a good idea to own this latter book regardless. Julia's got her crap together.
Baking
I'm torn here as to one book to recommend. I have two books I like, which combine to make the perfect baking book. The first is James Beard's Beard on Bread. Beard's quick breads (breads that don't use yeast to rise, but use baking powder or soda instead; usually sweet/fruit based) are particularly amazing, and his zucchini bread was a staple in my house growing up. Direction are plain and easy to follow. The second book is Rose Levy Berenbaum's The Cake Bible . I first checked this book out from the library when I made my first fancy cakes in high school for a friend's birthday. Directions are easy to follow, although the actual procedures can be somewhat complicated. Bernenbaum's book is one of those that you have to follow the directions to the absolute letter, but it's worth it. (Can you tell I don't bake much? Both of these are fairly utilitarian; if you want pastry, I am not the girl to ask.)
International
I think it's incredibly important to own non-American/French/Italian cookbooks, because, you know, other food is good too. I'd recommend getting two or three from whatever cultures are most important to you. Cookbooks are awesome souvenirs and I try to make a point of getting a local one every time I go on vacation. That said, my favorite ethnic (non-French, non-Italian) cookbooks are Cantina: The Best of Casual Mexican Cooking by Susan Feniger (out of print, sadly), The German Cookbook by Mimi Sheraton (I love all of her books), From the Lands of Figs and Olives: Over 300 Delicious and Unusual Recipes from the Middle East and North Africa (Paperback) by Habeeb Salloum and James Peters (I gave this to my mom for Christmas a couple years ago and she says she has never made anything bad from it), The Multicultural Cookbook for Students (Cookbooks for Students) by Carol Lisa Albyn (which, incidentally, is the first cookbook I ever used). My knowledge of this area is pretty limited as I've tried to focus on how international food influences American cuisine, but we've discussed that.
Technique
If you're going to acquire a level of skill that will, you know, impress people, you have to know something about how to chop things prettily and cover a fish with pastry that looks like a fish. My two favorites are La Varenne Pratique, by Anne Willan, and La Technique by Jacque Pepin. Willan's book is gorgeous and covers everything you need to know, but is a bit pricey. Pepin's book is a classic, and I think mine cost me about $15 used; an excellent, frugal alternative.
Reference
While a reference volume is probably not strictly necessary, I do find that owning a couple helps, especially when you get to the level where you are inventing your own recipes. As I said previously, The Joy of Cooking is an invaluable resource for cooking times/various methods of preparation for all kinds of fruits, meats and vegetables. See the "Know Your Ingredients" section. I also like Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking for a history and science reference, although while McGee is extensive in some areas, he is spotty in others. This may have been remedied in the book's sequel, but I haven't checked it out yet. Another good book for classic preparation reference as well as a handy guide for chef history is Larousse Gastronomique by Prosper Montagne, but again, these huge French volumes are pretty pricey. I own a first edition English translation from the 60s, which is good for kitsch/historical value, but I'm considering buying a new one in order to gain access to more recent information.
Niche
Buy a cookbook or two that speaks to a particular interest of yours, such as grilling or vegetarian cooking. For example, I own a book on crepes called Crepes: Sweet and Savory Recipes for the Home Cook, by Louis Seibert Pappas because I. Love. Making. Crepes. Not necessarily eating them. But making them. I wouldn't recommend this book to the beginner-expert (I hope it's clear what I mean by that) because it's only useful if you, too, Love. To. Make. Crepes. But there are a plethora of good specific cookbooks out there. If you would like a particular recommendation, leave a comment.
Other than that, I think my major advice would be to go out and buy anything by Mark Bittman that at all interests you. His recipes are simple, inventive, fresh, modern, and easy. It would be impossible to say enough good things about him. He is the premier basic cookbook writer out there right now, and I guarantee you won't be able to go wrong.
By the way, Joe, this is probably way more cookbooks than you meant in asking your question. Pick those which are applicable to the kind of cook you want to become and move on from there. Good luck!
As I am moving in the near future to a place where I must do my own cooking, and yet again hope to learn how to cook for myself with some level of skill, I was wondering if you have suggestions for a few basic necessary cookbooks. I have none at this point, and don't really know how to start; picking them out of the Border's discount section based on the cover art seems like a bad idea.
This is an interesting question, mostly because I'm assuming this friend of mine isn't really interested in buying each and everyone one of the 100+ completely indispensable (ha!) cookbooks I own, nor is he interested merely getting an introduction. He is interested in "some level of skill." I've seen people consider which single cookbook they can't live without (invariably The Joy of Cooking), and which single cookbook they would give to a beginner cook (again, The Joy of Cooking), but I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask for a list of starter cookbooks that wasn't necessarily aimed at the bottom rung. So, without further ado, I present the categories and my personal favorites for The Fewest Books a Decent Cook Can Own. And honestly, go out and buy The Joy of Cooking before you even begin to contemplate this list.
Grandma Food
I think everyone should have whatever cookbook their Grandmother used to learn to cook if possible, if only because you can then recreate all the comfort food and holiday feasts you grew up on. My paternal Grandmother used Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook, which is good for soups and stews and casseroles, as well as cooking times for big pieces of meat. Also, you know, jello salads. My maternal Grandmother used Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and I actually have her personal copy. Which is awesome, because it's full of shopping lists and menus for cocktail parties and whatnot. It's a good idea to own this latter book regardless. Julia's got her crap together.
Baking
I'm torn here as to one book to recommend. I have two books I like, which combine to make the perfect baking book. The first is James Beard's Beard on Bread. Beard's quick breads (breads that don't use yeast to rise, but use baking powder or soda instead; usually sweet/fruit based) are particularly amazing, and his zucchini bread was a staple in my house growing up. Direction are plain and easy to follow. The second book is Rose Levy Berenbaum's The Cake Bible . I first checked this book out from the library when I made my first fancy cakes in high school for a friend's birthday. Directions are easy to follow, although the actual procedures can be somewhat complicated. Bernenbaum's book is one of those that you have to follow the directions to the absolute letter, but it's worth it. (Can you tell I don't bake much? Both of these are fairly utilitarian; if you want pastry, I am not the girl to ask.)
International
I think it's incredibly important to own non-American/French/Italian cookbooks, because, you know, other food is good too. I'd recommend getting two or three from whatever cultures are most important to you. Cookbooks are awesome souvenirs and I try to make a point of getting a local one every time I go on vacation. That said, my favorite ethnic (non-French, non-Italian) cookbooks are Cantina: The Best of Casual Mexican Cooking by Susan Feniger (out of print, sadly), The German Cookbook by Mimi Sheraton (I love all of her books), From the Lands of Figs and Olives: Over 300 Delicious and Unusual Recipes from the Middle East and North Africa (Paperback) by Habeeb Salloum and James Peters (I gave this to my mom for Christmas a couple years ago and she says she has never made anything bad from it), The Multicultural Cookbook for Students (Cookbooks for Students) by Carol Lisa Albyn (which, incidentally, is the first cookbook I ever used). My knowledge of this area is pretty limited as I've tried to focus on how international food influences American cuisine, but we've discussed that.
Technique
If you're going to acquire a level of skill that will, you know, impress people, you have to know something about how to chop things prettily and cover a fish with pastry that looks like a fish. My two favorites are La Varenne Pratique, by Anne Willan, and La Technique by Jacque Pepin. Willan's book is gorgeous and covers everything you need to know, but is a bit pricey. Pepin's book is a classic, and I think mine cost me about $15 used; an excellent, frugal alternative.
Reference
While a reference volume is probably not strictly necessary, I do find that owning a couple helps, especially when you get to the level where you are inventing your own recipes. As I said previously, The Joy of Cooking is an invaluable resource for cooking times/various methods of preparation for all kinds of fruits, meats and vegetables. See the "Know Your Ingredients" section. I also like Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking for a history and science reference, although while McGee is extensive in some areas, he is spotty in others. This may have been remedied in the book's sequel, but I haven't checked it out yet. Another good book for classic preparation reference as well as a handy guide for chef history is Larousse Gastronomique by Prosper Montagne, but again, these huge French volumes are pretty pricey. I own a first edition English translation from the 60s, which is good for kitsch/historical value, but I'm considering buying a new one in order to gain access to more recent information.
Niche
Buy a cookbook or two that speaks to a particular interest of yours, such as grilling or vegetarian cooking. For example, I own a book on crepes called Crepes: Sweet and Savory Recipes for the Home Cook, by Louis Seibert Pappas because I. Love. Making. Crepes. Not necessarily eating them. But making them. I wouldn't recommend this book to the beginner-expert (I hope it's clear what I mean by that) because it's only useful if you, too, Love. To. Make. Crepes. But there are a plethora of good specific cookbooks out there. If you would like a particular recommendation, leave a comment.
Other than that, I think my major advice would be to go out and buy anything by Mark Bittman that at all interests you. His recipes are simple, inventive, fresh, modern, and easy. It would be impossible to say enough good things about him. He is the premier basic cookbook writer out there right now, and I guarantee you won't be able to go wrong.
By the way, Joe, this is probably way more cookbooks than you meant in asking your question. Pick those which are applicable to the kind of cook you want to become and move on from there. Good luck!
Thursday, April 12, 2007
I Hear America Singing
I only review American books.
This is for two reasons, the first culinary and the second literary. The culinary reason should be, I think, fairly obvious to any American interested in gastronomy. As Americans grow increasingly obsessed with everything gourmet, we turn to our native ingredients more and more frequently: cranberries, corn, tomatoes, turkey, etc., etc. To gloss over the past 75 years or so, James Beard showed us that an American cuisine is something worth working towards, and Alice Waters showed us that we pretty much don't have a choice—seasonal, local ingredients are the best way to improve the taste of food. It doesn't hurt that Americans have access to wide range of fresh ingredients. By this point American cuisine has evolved into something in which we can—should—take pride. American restaurants are among the best in the world; why shouldn't we create a home-cooked tradition equal to them? I've eluded to this previously, but one of my major goals in reviewing cookbooks is to support authors who are helping Americans improve their home-cooking skills. Professional chefs will always have each other to create competition, and I'm not worried about their ability to evolve. (How capitalist of me.) I'm worried about you. I want you to become a better cook, and I want you to have access to the best references possible.
And as for literature? I need American literature. Americans need American literature. I've written a lot on this topic, and I won't bore you with my self-righteous, obnoxious theoretical reasons, but I will say it has a lot to do with Whitman. I am grade-A certified obsessed with Walt Whitman. Reading Whitman is like reading a call to arms. He wants you to participate in what is usually referred to (by critics) as his “project”: the effort to produce a national poetry as diverse as American citizens. This has a lot to do with realizing the promises of the founding fathers, and much of it is romantic nonsense. There's something to it, though. Our stories are as plentiful and varied as the native ingredients we draw upon for the burgeoning American cuisine; how are we going to utilize these resources to the best of our abilities if we're not sharing our experiences? I know this sounds ridiculous and verging on fanatic, and I don't often get patriotic, but that man does something to me. If you haven't read Whitman, go read Whitman right now. It's springtime. It's the perfect time to do it. Read Whitman outside. You'll get it. I want to help old Walt out. With cookbooks. So help me out and write some good ones. OK?
Oh the farmer's joys!
Ohioan's, Illinoisian's, Wisconsinese', Kanadian's, Iowan's, Kansian's, Missourian's, Oregonese' joys!
To rise at peep of day and pass forth nimbly to work,
To plough land in the fall for winter-sown crops,
To plough land in the spring for maize,
To train orchards, to graft the trees, to gather apples in the fall.
This is for two reasons, the first culinary and the second literary. The culinary reason should be, I think, fairly obvious to any American interested in gastronomy. As Americans grow increasingly obsessed with everything gourmet, we turn to our native ingredients more and more frequently: cranberries, corn, tomatoes, turkey, etc., etc. To gloss over the past 75 years or so, James Beard showed us that an American cuisine is something worth working towards, and Alice Waters showed us that we pretty much don't have a choice—seasonal, local ingredients are the best way to improve the taste of food. It doesn't hurt that Americans have access to wide range of fresh ingredients. By this point American cuisine has evolved into something in which we can—should—take pride. American restaurants are among the best in the world; why shouldn't we create a home-cooked tradition equal to them? I've eluded to this previously, but one of my major goals in reviewing cookbooks is to support authors who are helping Americans improve their home-cooking skills. Professional chefs will always have each other to create competition, and I'm not worried about their ability to evolve. (How capitalist of me.) I'm worried about you. I want you to become a better cook, and I want you to have access to the best references possible.
And as for literature? I need American literature. Americans need American literature. I've written a lot on this topic, and I won't bore you with my self-righteous, obnoxious theoretical reasons, but I will say it has a lot to do with Whitman. I am grade-A certified obsessed with Walt Whitman. Reading Whitman is like reading a call to arms. He wants you to participate in what is usually referred to (by critics) as his “project”: the effort to produce a national poetry as diverse as American citizens. This has a lot to do with realizing the promises of the founding fathers, and much of it is romantic nonsense. There's something to it, though. Our stories are as plentiful and varied as the native ingredients we draw upon for the burgeoning American cuisine; how are we going to utilize these resources to the best of our abilities if we're not sharing our experiences? I know this sounds ridiculous and verging on fanatic, and I don't often get patriotic, but that man does something to me. If you haven't read Whitman, go read Whitman right now. It's springtime. It's the perfect time to do it. Read Whitman outside. You'll get it. I want to help old Walt out. With cookbooks. So help me out and write some good ones. OK?
Oh the farmer's joys!
Ohioan's, Illinoisian's, Wisconsinese', Kanadian's, Iowan's, Kansian's, Missourian's, Oregonese' joys!
To rise at peep of day and pass forth nimbly to work,
To plough land in the fall for winter-sown crops,
To plough land in the spring for maize,
To train orchards, to graft the trees, to gather apples in the fall.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
You shall be judged
Hello gentle reader.
Please allow me to procrastinate a little bit longer.
I will say this: I haven't written anything in about a year, apart from my journal and the occasional lame-ass foray into fiction writing. I enjoy writing about books, I am good at writing about books, and yet I suddenly find myself terrified at the prospect. (Didn't know you were getting cookbook reviews with a healthy side Paula-neuroses? Hmm. Go elsewhere.)
What I intended to write when I sat down was an essay on the parameters by which I will be reviewing cookbooks. Which I suppose I ought to do now.
-
Value Within the Canon
Most important. In an article for Salon, Jonathan Beecher Field wrote, “If you judge by utility, there are probably more inessential title in the world of cookbooks than in any other branch of publishing,” and he was right (cough, celebrity chefs, cough cough). Why this is I can't easily discern (apart from the fact that it's so easy to write cookbooks that I've even written one), but here's the deal: home cooking is a different art form entirely from restaurant cooking. If home cooking is to advance as an art form, folks can't be writing the same goddamn books over and over. So if a book has something new to say, it will be rated much higher than one that rehashes shit James Beard was working on fifty years ago. -
Kitsch Value
A lot of my cookbooks are old. Mid-century. Actually, I have at least ten that are from 1963. They are awesome. The best one (well, the best...?) is The General Foods Kitchens General Cookbook. The reason this book is awesome is three-fold: 1. Why on EARTH would General Foods, creator of our lady Betty Crocker, need another general cookbook? 2. The pictures make the food look disgusting. 3. The menus are arranged by event, and there is an rather unhealthy obsession with traveling parties (in which one housewife makes appetizers and cocktails, one makes dinner, one makes desert, and you travel from house to house). See how that overcomes the fact that no one in the world needs another recipe for roast beef with party potatoes? -
Literary Value
This is so MFK Fisher (who doesn't do so well with the recipes) and Mimi Sheraton (who does better with the recipes, but really shines in books like The Seducer's Cookbook, which does;t have so very many recipes) can slip through the cracks. Additionally, many of the books I will be reviewing aren't cookbooks at all, such as David Kamp's The United States of Arugula or that book by Franz Ferdinand. Also, I was an English major and I like pretty words. -
Recipes
I guess I'll test some recipes. I kind of look down upon pictures.
So we have three basic criteria on which to judge cookbooks. I guess I'll also rate each one with like a letter grade or a number of mixing spoons or something.
This is good!
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