Beginner-Expert Cookbook Library

A friend of mine recently asked me:

As I am moving in the near future to a place where I must do my own cooking, and yet again hope to learn how to cook for myself with some level of skill, I was wondering if you have suggestions for a few basic necessary cookbooks. I have none at this point, and don't really know how to start; picking them out of the Border's discount section based on the cover art seems like a bad idea.

This is an interesting question, mostly because I'm assuming this friend of mine isn't really interested in buying each and everyone one of the 100+ completely indispensable (ha!) cookbooks I own, nor is he interested merely getting an introduction. He is interested in "some level of skill." I've seen people consider which single cookbook they can't live without (invariably The Joy of Cooking), and which single cookbook they would give to a beginner cook (again, The Joy of Cooking), but I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask for a list of starter cookbooks that wasn't necessarily aimed at the bottom rung. So, without further ado, I present the categories and my personal favorites for The Fewest Books a Decent Cook Can Own. And honestly, go out and buy The Joy of Cooking before you even begin to contemplate this list.

Grandma Food
I think everyone should have whatever cookbook their Grandmother used to learn to cook if possible, if only because you can then recreate all the comfort food and holiday feasts you grew up on. My paternal Grandmother used Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook, which is good for soups and stews and casseroles, as well as cooking times for big pieces of meat. Also, you know, jello salads. My maternal Grandmother used Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and I actually have her personal copy. Which is awesome, because it's full of shopping lists and menus for cocktail parties and whatnot. It's a good idea to own this latter book regardless. Julia's got her crap together.

Baking
I'm torn here as to one book to recommend. I have two books I like, which combine to make the perfect baking book. The first is James Beard's Beard on Bread. Beard's quick breads (breads that don't use yeast to rise, but use baking powder or soda instead; usually sweet/fruit based) are particularly amazing, and his zucchini bread was a staple in my house growing up. Direction are plain and easy to follow. The second book is Rose Levy Berenbaum's The Cake Bible . I first checked this book out from the library when I made my first fancy cakes in high school for a friend's birthday. Directions are easy to follow, although the actual procedures can be somewhat complicated. Bernenbaum's book is one of those that you have to follow the directions to the absolute letter, but it's worth it. (Can you tell I don't bake much? Both of these are fairly utilitarian; if you want pastry, I am not the girl to ask.)

International
I think it's incredibly important to own non-American/French/Italian cookbooks, because, you know, other food is good too. I'd recommend getting two or three from whatever cultures are most important to you. Cookbooks are awesome souvenirs and I try to make a point of getting a local one every time I go on vacation. That said, my favorite ethnic (non-French, non-Italian) cookbooks are Cantina: The Best of Casual Mexican Cooking by Susan Feniger (out of print, sadly), The German Cookbook by Mimi Sheraton (I love all of her books), From the Lands of Figs and Olives: Over 300 Delicious and Unusual Recipes from the Middle East and North Africa (Paperback) by Habeeb Salloum and James Peters (I gave this to my mom for Christmas a couple years ago and she says she has never made anything bad from it), The Multicultural Cookbook for Students (Cookbooks for Students) by Carol Lisa Albyn (which, incidentally, is the first cookbook I ever used). My knowledge of this area is pretty limited as I've tried to focus on how international food influences American cuisine, but we've discussed that.

Technique
If you're going to acquire a level of skill that will, you know, impress people, you have to know something about how to chop things prettily and cover a fish with pastry that looks like a fish. My two favorites are La Varenne Pratique, by Anne Willan, and La Technique by Jacque Pepin. Willan's book is gorgeous and covers everything you need to know, but is a bit pricey. Pepin's book is a classic, and I think mine cost me about $15 used; an excellent, frugal alternative.

Reference
While a reference volume is probably not strictly necessary, I do find that owning a couple helps, especially when you get to the level where you are inventing your own recipes. As I said previously, The Joy of Cooking is an invaluable resource for cooking times/various methods of preparation for all kinds of fruits, meats and vegetables. See the "Know Your Ingredients" section. I also like Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking for a history and science reference, although while McGee is extensive in some areas, he is spotty in others. This may have been remedied in the book's sequel, but I haven't checked it out yet. Another good book for classic preparation reference as well as a handy guide for chef history is Larousse Gastronomique by Prosper Montagne, but again, these huge French volumes are pretty pricey. I own a first edition English translation from the 60s, which is good for kitsch/historical value, but I'm considering buying a new one in order to gain access to more recent information.

Niche
Buy a cookbook or two that speaks to a particular interest of yours, such as grilling or vegetarian cooking. For example, I own a book on crepes called Crepes: Sweet and Savory Recipes for the Home Cook, by Louis Seibert Pappas because I. Love. Making. Crepes. Not necessarily eating them. But making them. I wouldn't recommend this book to the beginner-expert (I hope it's clear what I mean by that) because it's only useful if you, too, Love. To. Make. Crepes. But there are a plethora of good specific cookbooks out there. If you would like a particular recommendation, leave a comment.

Other than that, I think my major advice would be to go out and buy anything by Mark Bittman that at all interests you. His recipes are simple, inventive, fresh, modern, and easy. It would be impossible to say enough good things about him. He is the premier basic cookbook writer out there right now, and I guarantee you won't be able to go wrong.

By the way, Joe, this is probably way more cookbooks than you meant in asking your question. Pick those which are applicable to the kind of cook you want to become and move on from there. Good luck!